The nuts and bolts of house maintenance
Posted by Dwayne Fowler on August 3rd 2009 | Discuss (0)
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INTRO
In caveman days home maintenance was a straightforward affair. As long as the cave floor was kept clear of old bones, animal innards etc., and the cooking fire was kept burning with a plentiful supply of fuel, the caveman family could read books or watch “The Flintstones” on television without a care in the world. As mankind progressed life became more complicated and so did their houses resulting in the need for the modern family, while enjoying a higher standard of comfort, to do a lot more to keep their homes in good order.
Modern houses, to some extent, still use building materials that have been in use for hundreds of years such as wood and bricks but in general new, low or no maintenance materials have replaced most traditional materials. Little needs to be done to maintain plastics, steel, concrete, composites or fibreglass thus simplifying the maintenance task to the point where most of it may be done by the new homeowner, with a little guidance from excellent publications such as this one. On the negative side Canadian homes have a tough climate in which to survive, while older houses (pre-1974 oil crisis) may have special problems, due to age-related deterioration, inadequate heat insulation, non-copper plumbing and less safe wiring. There is a popular misconception that houses were built better in “the good old days”. In fact, in the past, less rigid or non-existent building codes and less durable materials resulted in houses whose quality depended on the individual builder, and some of whose construction would not have been permitted nowadays.
No matter what kind of house you live in home maintenance is a very worthwhile activity. Not only does it keep the house safe and comfortable but it also increases its resale value, particularly if the house is kept “current”. The term “current” does not mean rushing out to your local hardware store to buy the latest widget the moment it appears on the shelves. It means keeping the state of the interior decor in good order and other activities such as upgrading your home to have two bathrooms instead of one, replacing energy-losing windows or finishing the basement such that it becomes a practical, utilitarian addition to the house. But even if all this is beyond your means a house in good structural condition, whose interior decoration is in good shape, will fetch a better price than one that is falling apart.
Now, having read the very convincing propaganda above, and having dug out your long-neglected toolbox you are probably standing there eager to start maintaining you house. So we had better tell you what to do.
Above all, remember to enjoy your home.
Calendar - Winter
Posted by Dwayne Fowler on August 3rd 2009 | Discuss (0)
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Your house and garden will probably be coated in a layer of snow or ice, or both, which will prevent most outside work. The weather will not preclude external visual checks from being carried out, but any resulting work will need to be delayed till the spring. Of course checks and work may still be carried out on the interior of the house.
Exterior
- Check for icicles hanging from the edge of the roof; if you see any knock them down to reduce the load on the eaves troughs and to prevent injury by someone walking into them. Do this about once a week. If icicles are a regular yearly phenomenon, the insulation in the attic may be inadequate and should be increased. See "What to Do if You Find Problems", "Roof (a)"
- If you can see the roof from the ground look for ice dams, which may also be an indication of poor insulation. The sun shining on a south facing roof and melting the snow may contribute to cause icicles and ice dams, but the most probable cause will be lack of insulation. See "What to Do if You Find Problems", "Roof (a)"
- Check for tree branches touching or close to the roof, they can damage the shingles and cause leaks.
- Walk around the outside of the house and check the exterior brickwork, masonry and siding for damage or deterioration. See "What to Do if You Find Problems" "Exterior and Gardens (a)"
- Check that chimney caps are still in place. See "What to Do if You Find Problems", "Roofs (f)"
- If your woodstove uses a freestanding metal chimney, that is not made of stainless steel and is not double skinned, check the chimney for corrosion. See "What to Do if You Find Problems", "Roof (e)"
- Check external lighting and motion sensors.
Interior
- Climb into the attic and look for wet patches or water stains on the underside of the roof, which may be due to a leak, ice dams or both. Skylight flashings are particularly prone to leaking. Check that roof vents are clear. Check that insulation is not covering recessed light fixtures, or the air slots in the soffit. Look for signs of rodent or insect pests. Be careful not to step into the area between joists, you will damage the ceiling of the room below if you put your foot through the dry wall material. See "What to Do if You Find Problems", "Interiors (b) and (c)"
- Check ceilings for discoloured patches or peeling paint in normally sound paint jobs. See "What to Do if You Find Problems", "Interiors (d)"
- Check the hot water tank for signs of leaks; ensure that the thermostat has not changed from the position you set it at. See "What to Do if You Find Problems", "Interiors (e)"
- Check heating registers are unobstructed; someone may have moved a large item of furniture to the wrong place.
- If you have not done so in the last couple of months change the furnace air filter.
- Check that the heating settings on the programmable thermostat are still valid for your lifestyle.
- Check visible water pipes and drain pipes for corrosion, or stains associated with water leaks. See "What to Do if You Find Problems", "Interiors (f)"
- Check for new cracks, bulges or gaps in floors, walls and ceilings and that existing ones have not changed. See "What to Do if You Find Problems", "Interiors (g)"
- Check all taps for drips. See "What to Do if You Find Problems", "Interiors (j)"
- Wipe up any condensation runoff on windowsills, under toilet tanks and exposed cold water pipes. If condensation in these areas is a regular occurrence perform this check as often as possible. See "What to Do if You Find Problems", "Interiors (k)"
- If you have a woodstove or fireplace that is used regularly, get the chimney swept in the middle of the heating season.
Calendar - Spring
Posted by Dwayne Fowler on August 3rd 2009 | Discuss (0)
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The winter is over, the snow and ice have gone, outside temperatures are comfortable. Now is the time to tackle that list of defects you noted in the winter.
Exterior
* Check for tree branches touching or close to the roof, they can damage the shingles and cause leaks.
* Check asphalt driveways and concrete steps and patios for cracks, holes or other damage. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Exterior and Gardens (b)
* Rake gravel driveways and check for bare spots that may need additional gravel applied.
* Check wooden fences for sagging, or other damage.
* Rake grassed areas when the grass no longer feels soft underfoot.
* If your property includes culverts and storm ditches check they are clear.
* Check the electrical power cable to the house is clear of branches or other obstructions, check the cable entry to the house is in good condition.
* Walk around the outside of the house and check the exterior brickwork and siding for damage or deterioration. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Exterior and Gardens (a)”
* Check the eaves troughs and down pipes for security, damage remove leaves etc. that are in the eaves troughs. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Roof (c)”
* Check that chimney caps are still in place, and that brick chimneys do not need pointing, and for the appearance of a white powdery substance on the bricks. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Roof (f)”.
* If your woodstove uses a freestanding metal chimney, that is not made of stainless steel and is not double skinned, check the chimney for corrosion. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Roof (e)”.
* When the snow and ice have disappeared check the roof for damaged or missing shingles and flashing, look for evidence of moss on the shingles. Check television antenna mast securing points. (See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, Roof (b).
* Wooden soffits and fascias should be checked for deterioration.
* Check and install screen windows and doors; check window and door frames for deterioration of caulking.
* Remove dead branches from trees and shrubs, and prune if necessary.
* Check porches and decks for rot or winter damage. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, Exterior and Gardens (c)”.
* Check exterior components of cooling systems for damage to refrigerant lines, clear away leaves and other debris. Check the unit is still level. Power up the system for twenty-four hours before use.
* Remove garden furniture from storage, and check for rot or damage. Check and re-fuel gas barbecues.
* Clear flower and vegetable beds of dead plants and plant seeds, and/or bedding plants.
* Weed and feed grassed areas.
* Check external lighting and motion sensors.
Interior
* When the snow and ice have completely gone, climb into the attic and look for wet patches or water stains on the underside of the roof. Skylights flashings are particularly prone to leaking. Check that roof vents are clear. Check that insulation is not covering recessed light fixtures, or the air slots in the soffit. Look for signs of rodent or insect pests. Be careful not to step into the area between joists, you will damage the ceiling of the room below when you put your foot through the dry wall material. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interior (b)”.
* Check for leaks or new cracks in the basement walls. Static cracks in basement floors are not a problem unless water leaks through them. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interior (a)”.
* Check ceilings for discoloured patches or peeling paint in normally sound paint jobs. (See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interior (d)”.
* Check the hot water tank for signs of leaks; ensure that the thermostat has not been moved from the desired water temperature. Operate the test lever on the pressure relief valve to check it functions; a bucket may be needed to catch ejected water. Check the operation of the pressure relief valve. (See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (e)”.
* Check doorframes are still square by ensuring that doors open and close without contacting the frame. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (l)”.
* Turn on the water shut-off valves for external taps; check water is available at the external taps.
* Check visible water pipes and drain pipes for corrosion, or stains associated with water leaks. (See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (f)”.
* Check for new cracks, bulges or gaps in floors, walls and ceilings and that existing ones have not changed. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (g)”.
* Check all taps for drips. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, Interiors (j)”.
* Wipe up any condensation runoff on windowsills, under toilet tanks and exposed cold water pipes. If condensation in these areas is a regular occurrence perform this check as often as possible. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, Interiors (k)”.
* Check sump pump operation.
Calendar - Summer
Posted by Dwayne Fowler on August 3rd 2009 | Discuss (0)
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Not only is summer the time to enjoy your garden, it is also the time to do exterior preventive maintenance such as painting and applying waterproof preparations to the deck. You can now finish fixing the winter defects you didn’t have time for in the spring.
Exterior
* Now that the trees have all their leaves, re-check for tree branches touching or close to the roof, they can damage the shingles and cause leaks. Remove branches causing a problem.
* Repair eaves troughs, soffits, fascias, chimneys and fences that were noted as defective in the spring or winter. Install leaf guards in the eaves troughs if desired. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Roof (d)”.
* Rake gravel driveways and check for bare spots that may need additional gravel applied.
* Repair wooden fences noted as defective in the spring or winter.
* Repair the exterior brickwork and siding defects found during your check around the outside of the house during the spring and winter. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Exteriors and Gardens (a)”.
* Repair wooden porches and decks that had defects noted in the spring and winter. Paint or waterproof as required.
* Paint or re-paint exterior surfaces on the house needing it. (See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Exteriors and Gardens (d)”.
* Re-caulk door and window frames that were noted as needing repair in the spring and winter.
* Repair asphalt driveways and concrete steps and patios that were noted as being defective in the spring or winter.
* Check external lighting and motion sensors.
Interior
* Check that the cooling settings on the programmable thermostat are still valid for your lifestyle.
* Check visible water pipes and drain pipes for corrosion, or stains associated with water leaks. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, Interiors (f)”.
* Check the tub and kitchen sink surrounds for mildew, the condition of the grout and caulking and signs of water ingress. Pushing against the tiles or plastic surround should meet with solid resistance, any softness or loose tiles indicates water damage. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (i)”.
* Check the floor and wall at the edge of the tub, for water damage, softness and loose tiles. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (i)”.
* Check all taps for drips. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (j)”.
* Check the hot water tank for signs of leaks; ensure that the thermostat has not been moved from the desired water temperature. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (e)”.
* Repair leaks in basement found in the spring or winter. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (a)”.
* Add extra attic insulation if needed.
Calendar - Fall
Posted by Dwayne Fowler on August 3rd 2009 | Discuss (0)
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Now that all the repairs are complete, the house is in perfect condition and a few checks are all that is necessary is to prepare the house and garden for the winter.
Exterior
* Now is the best time to carry out any roof repairs that were indicated earlier in the year. If no repairs are needed re-check the roof for damaged or missing shingles and flashing, look for evidence of moss on the shingles and remove it. Check television antenna mast securing points. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Roof (b)”.
* Check the operation of roof edge heating elements, if fitted.
* Check the electrical power cable to the house is clear of branches or other obstructions, check the cable entry to the house is in good condition.
* Rake gravel driveways and check for bare spots that may need additional gravel applied.
* Check the eaves troughs and down pipes for security, damage. When all the leaves are gone from the trees, remove debris from the eaves troughs. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Roof (c) and (d)”.
* Check that chimney caps are still in place, and that brick chimneys do not need pointing, and for the appearance of a white powdery substance on the bricks. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Roof (f)”.
* If your woodstove uses a freestanding metal chimney, that is not made of stainless steel and is not double skinned, check the chimney for corrosion. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Roof (e)”.
* Remove screen windows and doors; perform a final check of window and doorframes for caulking, re-caulk if necessary.
* Cover exterior components of cooling systems.
* Put garden furniture and barbecues into storage. Turn off gas bottles.
* Weed and feed grassed areas.
* Prune trees and shrubs.
* Check if wooden decks or porches need re-waterproofing.
* Install stakes to show where snow clearing should take place on driveways.
* Check and repair any holes starting in asphalt driveways. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Exterior and Gardens (b)”.
* Plant spring bulbs
* Screen young, or small evergreen trees with burlap.
* Check external lighting and motion sensors.
* Check sump pump operation.
Interior
* Check ceilings for discoloured patches or peeling paint in normally sound paint jobs. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (d)”.
* Check the hot water tank for signs of leaks; ensure that the thermostat has not changed from the position you set it at. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (e)”.
* Check heating registers are unobstructed; someone may have moved a large item of furniture to the wrong place.
* Check batteries in smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
* Switch off power to cooling systems.
* Check the operation of all ground fault interrupt power outlets
* * Have the furnace serviced by a qualified technician.
* Change the furnace air filter.
* Check that the heating settings on the programmable thermostat are still valid for your lifestyle.
* Check visible water pipes and drain pipes for corrosion, or stains associated with water leaks. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”. “Interiors (f)”.
* Check for new cracks, bulges or gaps in floors, walls and ceilings and that existing ones have not changed. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (g)”.
* Check all taps for drips. See “What to Do if You Find Problems” “Interiors (j)”.
* If you have a woodstove or fireplace get the chimney swept.
* Turn off the water shut-off valves for external taps; drain water from exterior taps and garden hoses.
* Wipe up any condensation runoff on windowsills, under toilet tanks and exposed cold water pipes. If condensation in these areas is a regular occurrence perform this check as often as possible. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Interiors (k)”.
* If the house has aluminum wiring get the wires in the main distribution panel and throughout the house tightened by a qualified electrician. Test ground fault interrupters. Ensure covers on exterior electrical outlets are in place.
* If you have roof-heating elements to prevent ice dams, check they are operating correctly. See “What to Do if You Find Problems”, “Roof (a)”.
Roofs
Posted by Dwayne Fowler on August 3rd 2009 | Discuss (0)
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WHAT TO DO IF YOU FIND PROBLEMS
1. If ice dams and icicles regularly appear on the roof, the most probable cause is inadequate insulation in the attic. Heat rises, so if good insulation does not prevent it from reaching the attic it will melt the bottom layer of ice or snow on the roof. The resulting water will flow down the roof until it gets to the edge where the lack of heat will cause it to freeze. With a steep roof icicles will form, with other roofs an ice dam will be created which will cause the water to back up the roof, get under the shingles and leak into the attic, and may drop onto ceilings forming the floor of the attic. If improved insulation does not cure the problem the roof geometry may be at fault, so as a last resort it will be necessary to install heating elements at the edge of the roof.
2. If the edges of roof shingles are curled up, and grit appears in the eavestrough regularly, have the roof inspected by a roofing contractor before leaks appear. The same requirement applies if antenna mounts are insecure. If moss appears on the shingles remove it by scrubbing gently with a mixture of one part bleach to three parts water and a dash of washing up liquid. Scrub with a soft window cleaning brush on a long handle from the ladder. Do not climb on the roof.
3. If the eaves troughs are made of steel, they may need to be painted, if the rust is widespread they will need replacement. Plastic or aluminum eaves troughs require no maintenance.
4. If surrounding trees continually block the eavestroughs with leaves, twigs, etc. a specially designed leaf guard made of plastic net may be installed. The plastic net is very inexpensive, and may be installed with no tools.
5. Older freestanding wood stove chimneys were made of a single layer of steel, which will sooner or later be perforated by rust. As soon as rust appears the chimney should be replaced with a stainless steel type, which will last the lifetime of the house with no maintenance except sweeping.
6. If the cement between the chimney bricks is in poor condition, or missing, have it re-pointed by a qualified contractor. If a white powdery substance (efflorescence) appears on the chimney, there may be a problem with water ingress, have it checked by a qualified contractor. If chimney caps have fallen off and cannot be refitted securely, replace them.
Exterior and Gardens
Posted by Dwayne Fowler on August 3rd 2009 | Discuss (0)
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WHAT TO DO IF YOU FIND PROBLEMS
1. Aluminum or vinyl siding requires no maintenance unless damaged by wind or physical contact. Colour loss or streaks in aluminum siding is not a cause for concern. If the cement between bricks is in poor condition, or missing, have it re-pointed by a qualified contractor. Monitor cracks in brickwork and exterior basement walls, if the cracks spread or become larger have the problem inspected by a qualified contractor.
2. Cracks or holes in asphalt driveways will get worse when water gets into the cracks or holes and freezes. The frozen water takes up more space than the melted water, and will widen the crack or hole by dislodging more asphalt. Use a driveway patching material to repair such defects. Concrete patios and steps may be repaired by chiselling out the crack to provide a key for the new material, and applying a concrete patching compound.
3. Wooden porches or decks made from cedar or treated wood are relatively maintenance free and need not be waterproofed. Usually if portions of the deck or porch have rotted, it is not worth replacing the defective parts, since the rest of the structure is likely to start rotting soon. The whole structure should be replaced. If decks or porches require replacement, use cedar or, less expensively, treated wood.
4. When exterior paint is in poor condition and peeling, ensure that water leakage is not causing the problem, before re-painting. Do not use latex paints on surfaces covered with oil-based paints, the latex paint will peel and deteriorate very rapidly.
Interior
Posted by Dwayne Fowler on August 3rd 2009 | Discuss (0)
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WHAT TO DO IF YOU FIND PROBLEMS
Interior
1. Leaks through cracks in the basement floor may indicate an inoperative, or inadequate, sump pump or clogged foundation drains. In the latter case seek the advice of a contractor. Leaks in basement walls can only be effectively sealed by digging down to the leak on the outside of the basement wall. When the leak area is reached it should be sealed with a suitable patching compound. Monitor cracks in basement walls, if the cracks spread or become larger the problem may be due to a shifting foundation. In this event have the problem inspected by a qualified contractor.
2. Wet patches on the underside of the roof indicate a leak in the roof. The leak may be caused by ice dams (See What to do if you have problems, Roof A), or by a roof in poor condition, in the latter case the roof shingles will have to be replaced.
3. Rodents or other pests in the attic will require the services of a pest control contractor.
4. Discoloured, or peeling paint, on ceilings may be an indication of water leakage problems from plumbing above the ceiling or from the roof, if the ceiling forms part of the attic floor. Paint will not adhere to damp surfaces, so the water problem must be fixed before re-painting. The other possible cause of peeling paint may be application of a new coat of latex paint on an existing coat of oil-based paint. In this case it will be necessary to remove the peeling latex paint, and use oil-based paint, or sand the old oil-based paint to provide a key for the latex paint.
5. Leaking hot water tanks usually cannot be repaired, unless the leak is from the pressure relief valve or drain tap. Otherwise a new tank is required.
6. Copper supply pipes that have slow leaks will have green and/or white stains on the pipe or on nearby walls or floors. Plastic waste pipes will have white stains. Leaks usually occur at joints in the pipe that can only be fixed by re-soldering or re-connecting. Older houses may have steel supply or waste pipes, these should be replaced with copper or plastic pipes if they leak.
7. Walls and ceilings that crack, bulge or distort may indicate movement in the structure or foundation. Have this checked out before replacing or patching drywall materials.
8. Tubs and kitchen sinks are usually surrounded by tiles intended to keep the water away from the adjacent walls. If seepage occurs due to poor grouting or caulking, the effect will only be noticed in the long term when tiles will become loose or walls will become soft. It will be necessary to replace the drywall, re-install the tiles and renew the grouting and caulking. This problem may occur even with one-piece plastic tub surrounds, if the seams or caulking at the bottom of the surround are defective.
9. As bathers step in and out of the tub, they drip water on the floor. Splashy bathers also may cause water to drip from the ends of the tub onto the adjacent walls and floor. If the water ingress has softened the walls, they may be repaired by patching, if the floor has rotted it will require replacement. To prevent these occurrences, ensure that tiles are fitted on the wall next to the vertical tub edges, and the joint between the tub and the floor is caulked. Mildew may be removed with bleach or a proprietary mildew cleaner, if mildew re-occurs leave the shower curtain open or consider installation of a bathroom vent fan.
10. This task may be significantly reduced if washerless taps are installed to replace the traditional types. Most dripping taps are due to worn out washers, which can be replaced by the average handyman, following the instructions on the repair kit package. Do not forget to turn the off the main water supply to the house before dismantling taps.
11. Some houses will retain humidity resulting from cooking, showering and breathing by the inhabitants. The more airtight the house, the more humidity will be retained, which is good for the heating bills but bad for window frames and floors under toilet tanks. If water deposits on window frames and floors below toilet tanks are a problem, consider the installation of a de-humidifier, in or near the affected areas. In the long run windows with better thermal properties may be the answer in living areas, and in the bathroom a waterproof floor (tiles or linoleum) under the toilet tank, with caulking on the edges at the wall and toilet pedestal. Otherwise keep wiping!
12. Doorframes that distort may indicate movement in the structure or foundation. Have this checked out before planning door edges to regain a good fit. Doors that are suddenly hard to close may also be due to changes in the humidity level in the house. Humidity levels may be monitored by the use of a hygrometer, an inexpensive accessory, to indicate whether humidity level changes are coincident with sticking door problems.
Improvements - Hints and Tips
Posted by Dwayne Fowler on August 3rd 2009 | Discuss (0)
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USEFUL HINTS AND TIPS - Home Improvements
* If a wood stove is the main source of heat in the house, consider the installation of an air exchanger, particularly if the house is airtight.
* If you want to finish the basement and install carpet on the floor it is not necessary to build a sub-floor, if the concrete floor is dry and in good condition. A thick carpet installed directly on the concrete floor will provide adequate insulation from the cold.
* Water leaks from windows may be due to gaps between the window and the exterior cladding of the house, they may also be due to inadequate caulking between the glass and the wooden frame.
* When replacing windows select vinyl frames to reduce the amount of house maintenance.
* When decorating consider that wallpaper is more expensive than paint, harder to put up and more difficult to remove. While wallpaper provides a warmer feeling than paint, warmth can be achieved with painted walls by choice of colours and by hanging colourful pictures and other wall decorations.
* When buying paint spare no expense. Cheap paint will require more coats and will not provide a good result. The best compromise, is to buy expensive paint that is discounted or on sale.
* When wallpapering do not try to overlap vinyl wallpaper, it doesn’t stick very well. If overlapping is unavoidable use glue specially formulated for this purpose, on the overlapping surfaces.
* If the house is unoccupied most of the day, a programmable thermostat will save on your heating bills. It may be set to reduce the heating temperature during the day when no one is home, and at night when everyone is in bed.
* For greater durability use treated wood (cheap) or cedar (expensive) when constructing outdoor projects.
Maintenance - Hints and Tips
Posted by Dwayne Fowler on August 3rd 2009 | Discuss (0)
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USEFUL HINTS AND TIPS - Maintenance
* Use salt sparingly to melt ice and snow on concrete, it can cause long-term deterioration.
* A well-ventilated attic prevents condensation, and protects the roof. This will not be the case if there are no vents in the roof, and/or inadequate vents in the soffit.
* If ice dams are an unavoidable problem on the roof, consider the installation of a membrane under the shingles rather than use of roof-edge heating elements.
* Static cracks in garage or basement floors are not usually a concern, as they do not normally contribute to the structural integrity of the house.
* Eave trough downspouts should have the water directed away from the house by the slope of the ground. If the ground does not slope away from the house extend the outlet section of the downspout so that water is deposited in an area where it flows away from the house. It may be necessary to re-landscape the property to create ground that slopes away from all the walls.
* Trees close to the house may help keep the house cool and protect it from deep snow on the roof. However tree branches should not be allowed to touch the roof, and tree roots may clog drains and damage foundations. It may be better to keep trees away form the house, especially thirsty varieties such as willow whose roots aggressively hunt for water.
* Vehicles with oil leaks will destroy asphalt driveways, keep leaky vehicles off the driveway or get them fixed.
* Never use latex paint on a surface that is coated with oil-based paint, without first stripping the oil-based paint or sanding it to provide a key for the latex.